Yes lots. The vinegar mix is good to start with and play around so you can get used to plating without wrecking an expensive bought mix. But the commercial mixes will give a much brighter result especially for zinc. They contain brightness for a start. And also for Zinc you’ll probably want to clear passivate it afterwards as well.

I just took it into repco and found a round filter about the right size. It was a bit thin, so I sealed a length of black rubber tube onto one side to space it up a bit. Not the answer you’re probably looking for, sorry!

Haha, sounds fun!

Thanks for getting in touch Rob. I'll send an email to your address that comes through with the notification. If you don’t hear from me, please send an email with the price etc to flickgeoffanemail@gmail.comAnother guy from Great Barrier already helped me out with the gear lever but thanks for that offer as well! I’m a little behind on the youtube updates…
Cheers

Hey Atze, I haven’t got to painting the chassis yet. But yes I will be using something like dinitrol inside, and some kind of paint on the outside. Maybe POR15, but I haven’t decided yet. I put hardened valve seats in mine because I was reconditioning the head anyway.The lead just stops the valves sticking to the seats if things get crazy hot, which can cause pitting. We haven’t had leaded fuel available in NZ since the early eighties, and there are plenty of old land rovers chugging around.I would just run it as is and change to hardened seats when there is another excuse to get that far into the engine.
I’ve continued the Land Rover project over on Youtube. .https://youtu.be/8Umuf-j2bMg

No sorry, I don’t really know apart from what you’ve already mentioned. I’d probably start by bypassing the vehicles wiring and test the starter motor directly.

They’re all original. Just cleaned.

Try thi <a href="http://shttp://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/resources/4_gearbox_axles_props_suspension.pdf
shttp://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/resources/4_gearbox_axles_props_suspension.pdf<br />and thi shttp://www.geoffslandroverblog.com/resources/3_engine_gearbox.pdf

Hey Jeff
You might be right about that, but do you mind telling us why...

Yeah, the swivel pins are a big job and probably the least likely cause of the problem. Mine wandered all over the road terribly before I rebuilt the front axle. Now I can cruise at 85km with one hand lightly resting on the wheel, and thats with retread cross ply tires.

There's only really three things that can cause the steering to wander. The swivel pins, the ball joints, or the steering alignment - and I guess it could be wheel bearings as well. It should be pretty obvious if it's the swivel pins or bearings are causing the problem. I'd start by lifting the wheels up, and unless something feels obviously loose when you tug on the top and bottom of the wheel, the swivel pins and bearings are probably not the issue.

It's likely is that the wheel alignment is out. It definitely was on mine. I think garages stuff this up by setting the wheels dead straight more like you would for a front wheel drive car. The drag link that goes between the two steering arms has to be the right length to get the correct toe in. You can easily check if the alignment is correct by measuring between the inside of the wheel rims at the front and back of the wheel with a tape measure to compare the difference. The haynes manual and land rover manual have the numbers in them. I set mine just with a tape measure, nothing fancy. If it's out you adjust the length of the drag link by threading the ball joints in or out. In theory you can do this with it still in place by just turing the drag link bar with a monkey wrench (the threads at each end are opposite so it gets longer or shorter as you turn it against the ball joints), but in reality the threads are probably so seized that you'll have to crack the ball joints and adjust it in a vice or something.